Three Muslims and a Jew

Steve and I have frequented what I had first thought was an Indian restaurant on the Beco dos Surradores located on some stairs...(what a surprise) on the way up to the Castelo Sao Jorge.  It was only my stupidity thinking it was an Indian restaurant when the sign clearly states that is is "Restaurante Paquistanes, Taste of Punjab". Ok.. not Indian, but Pakistani...a close neighbor and similar cuisine. Their food in a word: DELICIOUS! The price: Incredibly reasonable. You can have a complete dinner for well under nine euros! But first....some introductions and then my story.

Taste of Punjab is not far from Rossio Square and Praça da Figueira

 The store is owned by two men: Asim and Mohammad, although Asim is also called Mohammad. I am not sure why although it was once explained to me. Asim is also the gentleman who always takes our orders and recommends different dishes to try. He doesn't like us getting the same dish each time we come in, so we take his suggestions and try new ones.

 a simple and very clean restaurant inside

Mohammad is the head chef. I believe he came from Saudi Arabia where he was an engineer. He is a warm and friendly man and it was in his restaurant that I first saw the famous copper bowls that I want to buy.  Mohammad has promised he would find some for me to purchase.  "Any day", he tells me. I wait patiently and he has my cell number. I really do want these bowls!

A third person who could be considered a sous chef is Ali. He is in charge of making the roti and the naan (two kinds of bread) and also helps prep some dishes.  Lastly there is Claudia, a Brazilian girl who helps serve, prep and clean up. Asim, Mohammad and Ali are Muslim. Oh yeah...I am Jewish. The thing I learned at the end of this is...WOW...we really are alike!!! ("We" meaning Jewish people and Muslim people. Me??? Well, I am a bit of a heathen, but still trying to figure the whole god thing even at age 60.)

Mohammad: Engineer turned restaurant owner and cook  

      

Asim: Restaurant Owner showing the history of Tandoori

Ali:master Naan and Roti maker

Claudia: Brazilian girl who helps in the restaurant

Last week while eating lunch, I asked Asim and Mohammad if I could come in and watch them cook. Happily for me they readily agreed and I showed up on their doorstop at 10:30 a.m. the very next day. While waiting for Mohammad,  a local woman named Eucilinda came in for her daily dose of bica. She sat at my table and began speaking Portuguese. I said, "Eu não fala Português" but she didn't seem to care. She continued on for twenty minutes in Portuguese telling me about her life. When it was time for her to leave, she shook my hand and said "Adeus."  I learned a little about her and her travels to Spain and France. (At least I think that's what she was telling me.) She was delightful and quite an imposing character.

Eucilinda drinking her morning bica

Mohammad had still not arrived so Ali was nice enough to explain the art of making bread. Although his English is not great, he had no problem making himself understood. After rolling out the dough he placed it on a well padded round object.   

  Then, without using an oven mitt he hurled the dough in to the side of this very hot well with red-hot coals. (He swears he has never burned himself now that he has had some practice.  This is not something I will ever attempt. I burn myself while ironing!)

see the dough stuck to the side of the wall???? AMAZING!!!!!

I thought this was all pretty awesome watching the dough cook and form its bubbles right there on the side of this well. (Watching cooking techniques has always amazed me.) Once the dough started to brown, Ali took some kebab tool, stabbed the dough, removed it, and seasoned it with garlic and herbs. Very proudly he handed the bread to me. It was warm and tasty and I devoured it.

 He is also cooks the tandoori chicken in the hot oven once it is prepared by Mohammad.

tandoori chicken

Finally Mohammad came in and started cooking. Over the course of an hour he slowly sauteed onions and carrots with many wonderful seasonings that serve as a base to all Pakistani dishes. The aromas were almost sensuous...the smell of curry and cardamom permeated throughout the kitchen. He explained how these vegetables would be added to the main dishes he would cook and serve later in the day. Many times that morning he held the spoon out for me to take my finger and taste the incredible flavors. All good chefs taste their cooking before serving, we agreed. The smells and tastes equaled perfection!

I was amazed at how tender and delicious the meat and chicken tasted. That's when I learned about Halal, a way of slaughtering meat very similar to Kosher preparation.

We decided then to take a break and drink some Chai Spice Milk Tea which Pakistanis drink every morning to calm their body and mind. It was delicious and although I am not a tea drinker, this has become a favorite of mine. I noticed that before Mohammad drank he said "Bismillah." He told me that before any endeavor, such as eating or starting on a journey, this word is said. When Mohammad explained the word, his definition was quite beautiful. He told me that saying "bismillah" allows god...or goodness... to flow through your soul. I liked that thought..and I like Mohammad. He is a kind and patient man. I try to remember to say that now before I eat and each time I see Mohammad he reminds me of the word with a smile on his face.

I was invited back the following Sunday to assist with a group of 40 people who would be coming in for a birthday party. I was really excited at the thought. But the next day I woke with a horrid cold and thought handling food would not be a good idea.  I called them to decline and hope that I will once again have the opportunity to cook with them.

You will not find The Taste of Punjab on a website...at least not yet. I have been encouraging Asim to develop one because the food is great and there are only a few Halal places to eat in Lisbon. Muslims  and others who like carefully prepared food look for this type of restaurant. I think the rest of the world needs to know how good the food is.

More than learning how to cook this wonderful cuisine, I have learned a far better lesson about friendship across cultures.  These are my first Muslim friends. They are good people...kind, loving and hard working and I am so happy to know them. I will eat at this restaurant many more times before we leave in December. But for now...Khuda-hafiz (good-bye).

Mohammad, my teacher...and me

My love of Maria-A Very Long Story

I love the people of Lisbon! From the beginning of our visit until now, I feel they are the most gracious of all peoples. It is amazing how many of the Portuguese townfolk we have become close to. On many days it is the local butcher, the restaurant manager or the shop girl that calls out to us by name. I have made it a priority to remember their names and often we will hug and kiss (both cheeks) on the street.

Adjacent to our flat is the escadinhas that we must walk down to get anywhere. When we first arrived here last August I met a woman sitting on her doorstop. At first I thought her to be elderly. Gray haired, she wore her apron- covered house dress, sturdy black shoes and she looked very much like my own grandmother who arrived from Russia in the early 1900's. Unsure of her age, I was still certain she was older than me. However, there were no lines on her face.

Each day (and I see her at least once a day) I would say Bom Dia and she would, in turn, wish me a Bom Dia with a big smile on her face. I got very use to seeing her familiar face on my treks up and down the stairs. In the warmer months I dreamed of her inviting me in for a cold drink before my last grueling stair steps back home. I told Steve that my goal was to be invited into this woman's little house on the stairs before leaving Portugal.

As the weeks wore on I would stop to talk to her before heading UP. My knees would be aching and I would moan and point to my tired legs as I passed her. She in turn would point to her own body parts that were old and tired and aching. She even raised her skirt (after looking both ways on the stairs to make sure no one else was there) and showed me her two scars from her hip operations. Finally, using many hand signals, I told her my name was Ellyn and asked what her name was. This was the start of my wonderful friendship with Maria.

I have always found it fairly easy to communicate with people from different countries without knowing their language. My own beautiful daughter- in- law is from the Czech Republic and when I first met her mother, Kristina, she spoke no English, and I, no Czech. Yet we managed to spend hours together laughing and yapping away in our own languages, somehow making ourselves understood. We started with food (of course). Cooking in the kitchen is always a great ice breaker. We taught one another many words (first, all the curse words)...and now I consider her a dear friend. I knew I could do the same with Maria.

As days passed I found myself disappointed if I didn't see Maria. So, as I passed her apartment each day I would call to her through her open window. I would hear her little voice talking to herself as she would run to the door to see me, unlocking at least five locks. Her greetings now were always the same.... multiple kisses on each cheek with tight hugs. She smelled wonderful, just like my Nanny (grandmother) did. I am not sure what her perfume is...but I bet it is Tabu, which is the dusting powder my grandmother used.

my greeting each day from Maria

Ten days ago, my brother Robert and his wife Helen arrived for a visit. I, of course, told them all about Maria and as we trudged down the stairs I called out to her. I managed to make the introductions and she seemed to understand who everyone was. She particularly loves Steve and goes on and on to me in Portuguese about how handsome and strong he is. Before long, she was kissing the rest of them and that routine continued throughout their visit. One day Helen and I knocked on her door to bring her some pasteis de natas and some chocolate heart cookies that I bought from the bakery. I attached a note (written in Portuguese) telling her she was the sweetest woman in Portugal so I was bringing her some sweets. She seemed quite overwhelmed with her present because there were tears in her eyes as she gave out her wonderful kisses to us both.

The following evening I decided to invite Maria for dinner. I wrote her a long note in Portuguese (with the help of Google Translate) and knocked on her door. A young friend had also stopped to talk to her. When I handed Maria the note she handed it to her friend who read it out loud. It was then I suspected that Maria perhaps could not read. Having been brought up during the reign of Salazar, Maria's education was limited if not non-existent. During his dictatorship, Salazar frowned on any education and only an elite few managed to attend grade school and higher education. I found it quite sad to learn about his government. (check out: Salazar). After getting the invitation, Maria refused...going on and on about my living in a palace...(which of course we don't)...and making some other excuses I couldn't understand. Hoping she would change her mind, I went to pick her up at 7pm only to find her in pajamas and fuzzy slippers. She hugged and kissed and sent me on her way.

The next morning before even showering, I quickly dressed and Helen and I brought Maria some leftovers of frango and arroz (chicken and rice). Much to my delight, Maria invited Helen and me inside her home.

Maria's tiny bedroom

This beautiful, tiny woman with a very large heart began sharing her life with me. She showed me family photos and talked about her love of her dad. Surprisingly, I was beginning to understand her as she talked slowly in Portuguese. I learned that she is 64 years of age (only four years older than me.) I learned that she has lived 40 years in this tiny home with large pieces of furniture that I found difficult to maneuver around. Everything was immaculate and she even opened bureau drawers to show her underthings neatly folded and strangely, a huge number of bath towels folded in the dining room hutch drawers. If I had to guess I would say her home is less than 400 square feet, but every inch was filled with beautiful things that told me so much about her. It was warm and comfortable and perfect for Maria who lived there now all alone.

Yesterday we were all walking up the hill from one of our last expeditions before Helen and Robert returned to the U.S. Ahead I saw my wonderful friend trudging to her home with some groceries. I ran up to her,  took her arm and insisted that she come to my apartment for a drink...NO EXCUSES. The poor thing probably thought she was being kidnapped, but Steve took her arm (she can't resist him) and led her up to our flat.

Once there, I filled these miniature chocolate cups with Ginja and Maria, Helen and I sat on the porch drinking and talking. I brought the computer out with me and once again using Google translate, asked her more questions in Portuguese about her ife. How she understood me I will never know. My accent is horrific, but I did manage to find out she had a husband that died 16 years ago of some stomach ailment, the number of siblings she had and what her children do for a living.

We had a wonderful time and I even showed her pictures of my children and grandchildren and she asked many questions about each of them. I told her I would so appreciate her helping me with my Portuguese and she readily agreed. Immediately she pointed to different things in the apartment naming them in Portuguese. Now I have a teacher!!!   Finally, it was time for her to leave and after the expected warm hugs and kisses, she walked on home. It was a lovely afternoon!

So now, I know have a friend for life. It will be sad when I have to leave Portugal for many reasons, but mostly, I will be sad to leave Maria.

Eu adoro minha amiga, Maria

The Barefoot Contessa in Lisbon: "Recipe Night"

Saturday, October 9

Eating is not my only hobby. Cooking is also a passion of mine, and by no means am I comparing myself to Ina Garten (a.k.a. The Barefoot Contessa) who is an exceptionally wonderful cook with her own television show. (I am jealous!) I am, however, a pretty good cook. In the States, I own a small catering company called Gourmet Delights with my partner Cassy and we are always trying new and interesting recipes although I don't think any my clients are ready for octopus!

The "barefoot" reference is for the blisters still healing on my foot, so I do remain barefoot as much as possible. The Contessa part....???? Well....The Urban Dictionary defines "contessa" as a supreme goddess and a wonderful woman; a lady in her own right. Okay so maybe that's pushing it a little, but I can say my sweet and loving husband treats me as if I were a Contessa and perhaps it's because he likes my cooking! Nonetheless, to my friends and family at home...just pretend.....ok?

Tonight I made arroz de tamboril, a wonderful dish with monkfish, rice, prawns and chorizo sausage. The recipe I found was printed years ago in the Sunday London Times, but I have changed it a bit. It is really good and very easy to make. I am sharing it with you because if you find cooking a chore, this one is easy. It is similar to a paella or a jambalaya, but with a little more liquid. I served it with a wonderful Portuguese white wine called Serras De Azeitão. We like spicy things so I season pretty heavily, although this recipe is fairly mild. Use your judgment. We nearly licked our plates it was so good! Also great with a nice crusty bread!

 Serves 4

1 and 1/2 pounds monkfish fillets
8 raw prawns, peeled
4 tbsp olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 sweet red pepper, finely chopped
2 chorizo sausages, sliced (mild or hot)
2 large tomatoes, chopped
4 and 1/2 cups hot stock (vegetable or fish ) 
1 cup white wine
2 cups risotto rice
1 tsp Spanish paprika 
1 red thai chili pepper sliced. (this is optional. But leave in the seeds if you like it hot!)
2 bay leaves
Sea salt and black pepper
2 tbsp flat parsley leaves, torn
1 lemon

METHOD
Cut the fish into healthy, bite-sized pieces.
Heat half the olive oil in a frying pan and cook the fish and prawns on all sides until they change color. Remove to a plate and season well. Add the remaining oil and cook the onion, garlic, red peppers, and chorizo and fry for 10 minutes, stirring well. Add the tomatoes, stock or water and bring to the boil. Add the (unwashed) rice, paprika, bay leaves, salt and pepper, stirring well.
Reduce the heat to very low, cover and simmer for 20 minutes until the rice is almost cooked but still a little wet and soupy (add more stock if not). Add the monkfish, prawns and parsley and simmer gently for 10 minutes.

Scatter with parsley and serve in warm pasta bowls, with lemon wedges for squeezing. And of course, accompany with a nice Portuguese white wine! :)

my favorite white wine

Sunday, October 10

We walked up to Graça today in the rain because we were short of wine. That's an emergency!!!  As always, we carefully trudged up the hill with our little cart, hoping not to slip on the cobblestones. At the Pingo grocery market we got the following: milk, a loaf of bread, a whole cut-up chicken, a nice bottle of 10 year old port, three bottles of GREAT Portuguese wine which is $3.50 USD each, two boxes of raspberries, one apple, one potato. Total cost was 29 euros which is $40.25 USD. The port was the most expensive thing we bought which came to $12. I am definitely NOT leaving here. I could support my wine addiction and not feel bad I was breaking the bank.

our groceries

 Steve was amused as he photographed this women lumbering down the hill with her packages. This looks like a typical elderly Portuguese woman walking home during a rain storm. Wait...this hideously dressed woman who is far too tall to be Portuguese is none other than...(argh) me. Unfortunately. But really...it is hard to see, but it was pouring and I wasn't going to run into anyone I knew, was I?

an old, very unstylish woman

And finally, I have decided to give special kudos to our best restaurant of the week. By far, the award goes to Casa do Leão at my Castelo de São Jorge. 

Our table, situated by the beautifully arched window, tells its own story about the wonderful paradise that surrounds us. Food, ambiance and service was 5 stars and although it was our most expensive restaurant (we spent 112 Euros), it was worth every cent. (By the way, most of our dining experiences are no more than 30-40 euros for us both.)

view from our table on the castle grounds

We immediately made friends with Fernando, the maître d' who promised us that every time we came in we could have table #2 with this lovely view. They brought us out the traditional olive plate, and bread, but then served us samplings of pate and a plate with three kinds of warm sausage. Then, the meal we ordered was brought out. First there was shrimp, foie gras and then our main course. I got a wonderful monk fish lightly fried with sesame seeds that sat over a bed of wild rice. With that was crisp broccoli, perched on a creamy curry sauce laced with sweet, plump currants. TO DIE FOR!!!

crispy monk fish medallions in a warm curry sauce

Steve ate Pork Cheeks in a tangy warm gravy 

"I liked MINE, Ellie"

 I love this castle and the feeling as you walk around the magnificent surroundings under a lush canopy of trees and stone archways. And now, I even love the food. We will return many times!

For now, adeus and love from Steve and me.

Meu Deus...eu amo Lisboa! (My God..I love Lisbon!)

Let's get right to the heart of this blog: the food. Since last writing, I have continued on my quest to eat foods I hadn't dared try in the States. My brain is reeling trying to remember the stories that go with each of my gastronomic episodes.

First...the hell with dieting. I have never exercised so much in my life, but hey...it just ain't gonna happen. There is no way I am spending four months living without carbs, pork, pork fat, beer, wine and my pasteis de nata. Fine! As always, I needed to get the part about dieting out of the way. I obviously feel compelled to mention it in each and every blog. I did try very hard to take a break from my lovely pastries with custard cream. I threatened Steve with his life if he came into the house with yet another little white box filled with these incredible delights. But after two days without feeding my addiction, I looked at him with very forlorn eyes and he knowingly trudged to our favorite pasteleria to get me my drug of choice: NATAS!!!!!

Since I last wrote I have eaten the following and I consider them definite "firsts" for me:

• arraia grelhada (grilled stingray) It was YUMMY. Of course I don't have pictures because I always eat things and then remember to photograph the food after the fact. Oh well, believe me it was great. I didn't even know these things were edible, but I have a trusting nature when it comes to food, especially when I eat it at Chapitos!

• chocos grelhados (grilled cuttlefish.) I ate this today in a wonderful restaurant in Graça called O Piteu and at least remembered to photograph before inhaling! Tender and delicious, it was served in normal Portuguese style with a boiled potato and some salad. (Now I know where all those pet parakeets get their cuttle bones)

I have a box of natas in my hand for later. mmmm

grilled cuttlefish

I think cracas will be my next "first". For those NOT in the know....cracas means barnacles. You got that right...barnacles...those little things that cling to docks. (not snails!) I think they eat everything  you can think of here in Portugal..and I am here for the adventure!

Events in Rossio Square

Steve and I were walking through Rossio square one afternoon and saw two groups of students facing each other. One group of students wore bizarre foolish outfits and hats while the other group garbed themselves in all black. Each side would sing loudly to the other and this continued for days every afternoon. (It is still going on!) Anyway....we hadn't a clue and decided to investigate. Comes to find out this is called Praxis (the art of practice). It involves upper class students (those in black) hazing the incoming freshman in a kind of "joy to the freshman" ritual. It has quite an interesting history and I urge you to check out this ritual. Put your cursor over the word video  and click to see the movie I took.

the freshman

Portuguese Folklore Festival

Last weekend while sitting on our patio, the music from this very same square seemed louder than usual. Although I had sworn to Steve we needed rest and shouldn't go out again (stairs...help!!!) we couldn't resist finding out what we were missing. Trudging back down for our second or third time that day we discovered hundreds of people gathered in front of a stage with townsfolk in costumes singing and dancing to traditional folk music. They were dressed in clothing typical to a earlier era in Portuguese history and they all reminded me of the pictures I have of my grandparents when they lived in eastern Europe. The stage had singers and musicians of all ages. Put your cursor and click video to see and keep your eyes on the two little boys in the background. One is playing the accordion, the other a ukulele and I fell in love with both of those cuties. Here are also some pics:

 Planes and Trains and Things That Go.....TOO FAST!!!!!

On a daily basis I think of this Richard Scarry book. Transportation vehicles around where I live in Lisbon travel way too fast and is the only thing you will hear me complain about. (okay, so I have complained about the BAZILLION stairs, but nothing else.) But after almost being run down by a police vehicle yesterday, I decided to tell this story. I will begin with the sidewalks. There aren't any to speak of. At least not sidewalks that I can relate to. They are hundreds of years old, less than a foot wide and made of cobblestones (which are very slick by the way). Oddly enough they are slanted toward the street. My hips and butt are wider than these sidewalks. I used Steve for my model. His hips are smaller than mine. See...I kid you not! (about the sidewalk...not our hips!)

Steve (Mr. Wizard who knows EVERYTHING) tells me, they were designed  to help drain water. The curb is MAYBE one inch high so really, we aren't talking about any buffer between driver and pedestrian.  Of course, "way back when" they had no motor vehicles.

The problem:

Around where I live, there is an large amount of handicapped people on metal crutches. It makes me sad. Young and old limp around the city, some missing a particular limb. They hobble around these streets, and a great number are young folks.  Now we have handicapped people in the US, but I am definitely seeing more around the general area where we live. It appears glaring to me and I have been obsessively asking my Portuguese friends about it.  There doesn't seem to be any rules of the road in the smaller sections of Lisbon and with the very narrow streets and sidewalks, the fast cars, this just might be part of life. If were to live here permanently...I guess I would go in to the metal crutch business. I would be rich! The advice from my friends here is to walk very carefully...especially during the rainy season.

Random Thoughts:

• I finally bought a pair of sneakers and walked four hours in them my first day.  Mistake. I have a MASSIVE BLISTER!
• The other day it was drizzling. We were on the road. I started to slip and fell into a woman with my hands out. (for those Seinfeld experts...they were real, but not very spectacular!)
• oh yeah...Steve finally started teaching and lecturing He was great! His students keep apologizing for not knowing English very well. (a)they speak English beautifully and (b)Steve speaks Portuguese..NOT AT ALL! They all think he is wonderful!
• I made best friends with Mormon (that's his name)...owner of an Indian restaurant. He is getting me my much sought after copper bowls!!! THANK YOU MORMON.
• and lastly....I am never going home. I will sit forever at the miradour in Graca, gaze at my lovely castle and sip my bica. Ohhh...life is sooooo good! Adeus meus amigas!

...and kilometers to go before I sleep!

I want to rest, but the streets of Lisbon call out to me. It may be in the pan flute and drums that sing it's same tune each night outside our window. It may be as simple as sitting on my patio and listening to the church bells reminding me that the hours are passing all too quickly. I adore all of Lisbon; its people, its culture, its winding streets and alley ways that hold inconceivable surprises at every turn. It is difficult NOT to go out in the evening. There is an abundance to see and you miss out  if you don't venture on to the cobblestone streets.

enjoying a night on the town

this group gathers each night and plays the same tune for hours

 On one particular night we wandered with out friends Ron and Linda through the lighted alleys lined with chairs and tables for hungry tourists and locals. Calçada do Duque is a street made of hundreds of stairs, dotted with an array of traditional Portuguese restaurants that cater mostly to tourists. Look carefully at the daytime view to see my wonderful Castelo de São Jorge in the background. It is always a comforting site although I usually groan loudly at the thought of my walk home. My knees are quickly failing me and are my constant reminder I am getting old!

Calçada do Duque in daylight

Calçada do Duque at night

We made a stop at one of our favorite bars that I spoke about in an earlier blog....the bar with the pornographic wall paper. (I love this place!) The name of the establishment is Maria Caxuxa, a former bakery turned trendy bar located in the Bairro Alto district. The waitress there told me that the posters are changed monthly, but when we returned pornography reigned! WARNING: Following picture is not for children!

a very cool bar

A few days later, we were walking home one evening about 9:00. In a dark alley near our flat there is an empty lot and that night (and every Monday night) people gather with chairs to watch movies projected on the blank cement wall. After researching, we discovered that this occurs in the Largo do Achada across from the Casa da Achada. Different than a drive-in movie (whose time in the states has long passed), there are no cars or concession stands with coca cola, candy and popcorn. Folding chairs, interested people and the movie make this scene. On this evening we were fortunate to see Al-mummia (the Mummy), a 1969 Egyptian film with English subtitles. Although not the same familiar movie shown in the states, this won acclaim at the Cannes foreign film festival. We eagerly wait for next Monday night's film. From what we gathered, there is no admission fee!

locals gather to watch the film

                          ___________________________________________

Food...how can I write another word without mentioning my main obsession???

I will first tell you that Stephen, just through walking, has lost weight. I see his face and belly shrinking by the day. Now, I have read countless articles regarding women of my age and weight loss. IT IS IMPOSSIBLE TO LOSE WEIGHT IF YOU ARE A WOMAN OVER 55 UNLESS YOU PAIR DIETING WITH EXERCISE. Blah, blah blah! This appears to be UNFORTUNATELY TRUE!!!! I tried on my jeans today (which were already a tad too snug.) Well, they are STILL a tad too snug. For some reason this makes me HATE men and I have been grumpy toward Steve all day. Seriously, men can give up one breadstick a day and lose 10 pounds. Isn't childbirth, sagging breasts and wrinkles enough.....do we have to continue to suffer????

Enough! Let's get back to the food. 

I have a new love! Having gone past my obsession with roasted suckling pig (leitão assado), and cod (bacalhau) I was enticed by my "friend" Isabelle (waitress and manager) at Chapitos to try grilled octopus. (polvo grelhado).
                               

 

Chapitos is a small circus school and restaurant near our flat. It is a very interesting place with great food and a lovely view. (The circus school starts up again soon and we plan on seeing the shows). The entrance to this restaurant is a small pathway leading into gardens and a view of Alfama and the Tagus River. When you first enter you will find Claudia, a beautiful girl who sells enamel jewelry (both necklaces and earrings) made by her two girlfriends. Claudia and I know each other well. I have bought countless pieces...each distinctive and beautiful. I keep thinking they will make wonderful presents...but I would never know which of the pieces to part with.

some of the pieces I have bought

Never would I have tried octopus, but believe me, this is even better than lobster. (I swear!) I know that some of you are thinking...tentacles???...suckers???...NOT FOR ME! And truthfully, the first couple of times eating this, I did not look at the food. It is not pretty. But, the taste is overwhelmingly yummy and these poor ugly creatures deserve something positive to say about them. I won't be trying this at any other restaurant.  My thoughts....why mess with perfection? I am determined to try and make this before I leave, but there are tricks to cooking it....and I still need to learn. Perhaps there is a cooking class out there to show me how to tackle this creature. Eating this has become an addiction and if Steve would allow, I would go to Chapitos DAILY to eat this very rich gastronomic delicacy laden with olive oil. (no wonder the jeans are still snug!)

We have also been eating ALOT of Indian food. This was partly due to my friend Linda loving this cuisine and avoiding at all costs meat and octopus (although she DID try  piece with her eyes closed and a horrific expression on her face). Anyway, she is a vegetarian so we frequented this wonderful restaurant in Largo do Carmo, a beautiful tree lined square with tables situated under shady trees.  They serve their food in these great copper serving dishes called Sidgis, which I am hoping to find when I return to Tempe. They are wonderful and will be a great way to serve food to my guests when they come for dinner.

chicken korma served in a sidgi

And finally, yesterday Steve had a meeting with the director and staff from the Fulbright organization. Although this past month he has not had any major commitments, he has spent his time learning about Lisbon and meeting with staff at the university as well as the Lisbon census bureau. He is preparing his classes (which start at the end of September) as well as a number of lectures and workshops he will be conducting around the country. He has also been having one hell of a time just hanging out, drinking different ports and wandering the streets with me. Not a bad gig! Check out his blog at: http://stevedoig.com/

The staff at the Fulbright office have been incredibly gracious and kind to us. Without them we would never feel as welcome and comfortable in a country we knew little about. Like I've said...I am happy to reap the benefits and I am loving every bit of this piece of heaven.     

Carla, Otilia, Steve and Paula at the Fulbright office. They are GREAT!

For now, Adeus my friends! Oh yeah...and Ciao from my buddy here:

outside our window

****thanks to Ron who took some of the pics I will be showing. He is a wonderful photographer!